Time travelling, roughing it at the MoonPad and cruising around Beverly Hills

You lucky people. This week, due to the multiple time zones we’ve experienced, you guys get an extra day in this blog! That’s 8 days worth of activities and thoughts in just one week!!

We left New Zealand’s capital Wellington on Sunday morning at 7:30am. We were prepared for our 13hour bus journey all the way back to Auckland via the Naked Bus company. Now the name of this bus service was an appealing one and when we trekked from our hostel to the station half an hour away, we were greeted by a friendly chap who ushered us onto the bus and told us we’d be stopping an hour and a half away to change buses. This is where it started to go sour. We moved our bags onto the next bus, got a seat each at the back and waited to set off north for 9hours until our next bus change. Then the bus driver spoke. He told us the basics (wear your seatbelt, no consumption of hot food and drink etc etc) but also told us that if we feel sick and throw up, we’d have to pay $250 for the cleaning. Our main gripe with him was how he conveyed this information; in a rude, patronising and unprofessional manner. He treated the coach full of adults like a classroom of five-year olds.

The highlight of the first part of the journey was driving through Bulls town again. ‘A town like no udder’ greeted us as we entered and many more puns were spotted on toilets (‘reliev-a-bull’), bins (‘response-a-bull’), a bakery (‘delect-a-bull’) and a school (‘knowledge-a-bull’). Bulls town certainly didn’t disappoint and we were all fairly content… until the bus driver told us to remove our headphones ‘coz we can’t hear him’ (we heard every single word you were saying in that condescending tone) and informed us to get off and change bus. But we didn’t need to and he couldn’t understand this (even after showing him our itinerary) and made us get off the bus to then decide that we were actually on the correct bus and to get back on. Make up your mind!! I wish we did change bus because we wouldn’t have had to endure this rude man for the next 8 hours. He was also incredibly unhelpful when the bus had a flat battery half way through the journey. After an hour delay, we continued onward to Auckland and finally arrived at our hostel for the night, The Fat Camel (where we got a free upgrade to a room with a window! Didn’t even realise we’d initially booked a room without a window).

The next day we checked out, grabbed some bacon baps at an indie café in the city centre and waited for our taxi to the airport. When checking in, we were informed that our flight to Fiji was as planned but our connecting flight to Los Angeles had been delayed by 9hours. Luckily for us though Fiji Airways had sorted out accommodation for the night and a free dinner! We arrived in Fiji at 7:30pm and were welcomed with a Fijian band complete with ukuleles and tropical notes to see us through customs. The Fijians are incredibly friendly; all of the flight attendants were accommodating (and would even offer to replace your beer once you’d finished) and those working on the baggage checkers would lift up our backpacks and help us put them on our backs! We got our free accommodation for the night sorted out (an on-site airport hotel) and managed to bag a room each (first time in 7months that I’ve had my own room!). It was like living a life of luxury compared to the cramped dorm rooms of hostels and we even had a concierge who carried our bags to the rooms! We then headed upstairs for the all-you-can-eat Asian buffet and demolished it. We were eating as if we hadn’t seen food before but hey, you’ve got to make the most of free dinner!

The next morning saw us finally boarding our plane set for Los Angeles. Now, our original time traveling plan (leaving New Zealand on 7th April at 16:30 and arriving in LA on 7th April at 13:30) was ruined due to the delays, but we did still manage to do some time traveling. Due to this stopover in Fiji, we managed to land in LA the previous calendar day to what we’d left and impressively visited three countries on the 7th April. What’s weird is that we’re now 8 hours behind the UK and this is the first time in 7months that we’ve been behind you guys. After three movies, three episodes of Modern Family, two episodes of Big Bang Theory, music and plenty of food, we arrived suitably jet-lagged in a dark Los Angeles. Flying over the city was an amazing sight, seeing the strips of lit up blocks and downtown LA and wondering where the hell we’d be staying for the next few days. It was now midnight and we were meant to have checked-in 7 hours earlier at 5pm. But it was all going to be fine because I had sent them an email before we left NZ to tell them we’d arrive around 1am and whether it was possible to do a late check-in. All would be fine, right?
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We jumped in the first taxi we could find and headed for Boyle Avenue, a half hour drive away from the airport. On arrival we were greeted by four guys sat out the front in seated hammocks and surrounded by tables made out of old doors. This matched the description of the hostel online, “MoonPad hostel: a place for artists and budding astronauts” (neither of which apply to us). One guy, Nick, asked if we were checking in and whether we had a reservation (he needn’t have bothered asking that last question because when we did state our reservation, he had no record of it). After a few minutes of trying to find our booking and not succeeding, he informed us that because we weren’t here by 10pm, our room (well, beds) had been given to people who had walked-in with no reservation. That email I told you I’d sent? They didn’t see it. This was not the start to our LA adventure we wanted. After a frantic half hour of Nick looking for spare beds (he only found one), he offered us ‘The Morroccan room’. Now, this room may sound exotic and was sold to us as ‘a large open space where we can put four mattresses for you to sleep on’ but in reality it was just a large landing at the top of the stairs, outside of everyone’s dorm rooms and next to the communal bathroom (so in a way we got an en suite…). We had no other choice but to accept this space and call it ‘our room’, after all it was now 1:30am and we were exhausted and hungry. We told him we’d stay there for this one night and sort out this mess in the morning. Before bed we had no success searching the surrounding area for places to eat and so decided to meet our new hostelmates (is that a term?!) sitting out the front. Nick, the maintenance guy from New York, Alex, a Frenchman travelling with his girlfriend and Daniel, an ex-marines guy from Indiana, were all suitably drunk and welcoming us to this crazy establishment. Another guy then joined us outside. He was originally from Georgia and moved to LA 13 days ago to live the American dream. In his own words ‘Acting. That’s what’s gonna get me there if my singing and comedy stand-up don’t work out’. Yep, he was a classic American guy moving to the sunshine state to pursue a better career and become famous. He even sang us two songs (yes, two!) and not only did he sing us an R&B number, he also treated us to some country ‘to show us his range by singing two completely different genres’. He was definitely one of the most confident guys I’ve met and didn’t know when to stop talking which did provide much amusement for the night. We hit the hay after that and slept pretty much on the floor (the ‘mattresses’ were made of foam and couldn’t have been more than 3inches thick).

After a long lie-in to rid some of the jet lag, we attempted to sort out our room but were told that the manager was only in from 5-10pm (what kind of manager only visits his hostel for 5hours a day?!). We weren’t gonna let that ruin our first full day in LA and decided to catch the metro into town. What’s brilliant about this metro is that you can buy a $5 all day pass which lets you ride anywhere on any train or bus for the whole day! After a few train changes, we arrived in Hollywood. The land of the rich and famous and home to its world reknowned sign and walk of fame. We were immediately greeted by Adam Sandler’s star and a tour guide trying to sell us a Hollywood tour around the celebrity houses and up to the sign. We were hesistant up until he told us the price, he’d give us the $25 child price instead of the $40 adult price… tempting. But we decided to have a wander round for a bit seeing as we’d only just arrived there. It was interesting. The area we found ourselves in seemed a bit run down and not how I imagined Hollywood to look like. After being hassled by a few more tour guides (the prices started going as low as $20), we went back to the first man and bartered with him to get his tour for $20. Bargain!
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But first we needed food. Good ol’ American food. A greasy burger, greasy fries and a gre..fizzy drink. We found Juicy burger; a fast food joint where you create your own burger and can have unlimited refills on your drink. And you definitely need unlimited refills because the choice is unbelievable. Over 100 options adorned the hi-tech drinks dispenser; Coca Cola with raspberry or orange or cherry or Dr Pepper with vanilla or Sprite with strawberry or grape or Powerade or Sunkist or any other combination you could think of. It was awesome and Josie for one made the most out of this crazy selection, trying every possible drink she could and getting high on E numbers and sugars. So excitable she seemed drunk. Oh yeah and the burger was delicious. Complete with food babies and a cup full of Coca Cola with lime, we boarded our tour bus, well, a converted 8-seater pick-up truck, and met Kenny our friendly guide. He immediately took us to the hotel used in Pretty Woman (I’ve not seen it) and then onwards to the Hollywood sign up in the hills. After some questionable driving, we arrived at the closest point you could get to the sign without trespassing and acquiring a hefty fine. This is where Kenny excelled in his duties and became a professional photographer for ten minutes, ushering us onto a rock in front of the sign and doing several angles (and sound effects, “BAM”) to capture the perfect shot.
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Our tour continued down Hollywood Boulevard passing by a Disney-only movie theatre, the Hard Rock Café and the Dolby Digital theatre where the Oscars are held. Kenny drove us down to Sunset Boulevard and en route we passed The Hills’ reality tv show house, the ‘Nightmare on Elm Street’ house and the house from ‘Halloween’. We then approached Beverly Hills so cue famous Wheatus song ‘Beverly Hills’ and we were ready to explore the area of the rich and famous. We passed by Ellen Degeneres’ house, Ringo Starr’s, Jennifer Aniston’s, Gene Simmons’, Michael Jackson’s, Christina Aguilera’s, Tony Stark’s and even Hugh Heffner’s Playboy mansion.
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We begrudgingly headed back to our hostel to see the manager. He apologised when he realised we were the ones who had slept on the floor the previous night and we told him how we weren’t paying for last night, explained how it shouldn’t have happened due to us having emailed and said how we wanted a room with four beds like we had booked. He still didn’t have four beds free and so came up with an alternative. Somewhere he thought we would really like. Somewhere which isn’t even located in the hostel but instead, is in the garden. An RV. Yep, he was putting us up in his motor home and we had no other option but to choose it. We paid our reduced rate and got comfortable in our cozy, cramped new living space. Thank goodness it was only for two nights.

The following morning we were up bright and early for our free breakfast and to visit Auntie Mary, Nathan’s mum’s friend who has lived in LA for the past 30 years. After an hour and a half on metro trains, we were greeted by Mary at Redondo Beach train station. She was immediately welcoming and took us to a New York pizza restaurant where we got the best pizza I’ve ever tasted. A medium was the size of an extra large in England. We napped off the doughy deliciousness on Hamosa beach; a beautiful stretch of golden sand adorned with rude, chavvy 14-year old kids on their Spring Break. All of that aside though, Hamosa beach and the surrounding area was how I pictured LA. Mary then took us to our first American supermarket (where we spent ages drooling over all of the amazing food) and then to her beautiful home where she cooked us good old English bangers and mash. It was a pleasure to spend the day with Mary and her friend Terry, they were some of the friendliest and most accommodating people I’ve met and it was really nice knowing that not only did we appreciate spending time with her, she was blessed to be meeting us as well. After receiving bags full of free shampoos, socks, hair gels and beauty products (the airplane sized ones because Mary used to be an air hostess), we decided to unwillingly head back to our campervan before it got too dark. We had three different trains to catch and one change was at a dodgy area of the city. We were pretty much travelling through the ghetto and had to get off and change lines. This would have been fine if a cleaner at the station didn’t sign off his interaction with us with “keep safe and be careful guys”. Err.. well now we’re worried. Four British adults wandering around the platforms with all of our prized possessions amongst the potential gang members of this district of LA. Heidi later said that if they were clever enough, they would’ve mugged us. All was fine though and we managed to get back to our hos..RV in time to book some new accommodation by the beach and get drunk to forget that we’re sleeping in a second-hand motor home.
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We left the MoonPad before you could say ‘check-out’ and headed on our long journey to Venice beach (still in LA but the transport in this city takes ages due to size of the place). We arrived in a much nicer area than our last hostel and found our motel (classic America). Well, this felt like luxury. We had a bed!! And a TV and an ensuite and a maid and a fridge and a microwave. Okay, it wasn’t the most extravagant place but compared to the hell hole we’d just come from, this was on par with a Hilton! After a much needed lie down on the bed, we ventured to Venice beach. Building walls used as canvasses for street art greeted us as we approached the boardwalk. It was a lot colder today than the previous couple of days which made us question why we decided to head to the beach but this place seems to be vibrant any time of the week. The boardwalk was lined with the odd (voodoo dolls and 3D portraits of aliens), the tacky (generic holiday t shirt stalls and henna tattoo carts) and the wacky (a ‘green doctor’ of whom you could pay to give you a medical marijuana card to enable you to get weed from the pharmacy). There was also a street performance by a talented bunch of breakdancers. Not only did they each perform indiviually, they used members of the public for humorous acts and then scoured the audience for money. They were really good at what they did and if I wasn’t a budget backpacker, I probably would have given them some money. Maybe. A stop for some dinner and then we continued down the strip towards Santa Monica pier. Along the way we played on swings, climbing frames and hanging ropes with the sun setting in the distance. The pier resembled one used in Grand Theft Auto 5 (which btw is very accurate here in terms of the people you meet whilst walking around, a lot of them either talk to themselves or take the opportunity to introduce themselves to you) complete with Ferris wheel and rollercoaster, takeaways and a terrible busker. We headed back to grab a beer and noticed a sign showing that the pier marks the official end of Route 66!
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Before returning to our motel room, we visited Vons the supermarket and spent a ridiculous amount of time (and money) in there on classic American snacks like Jolly Ranchers, Reese’s puffs peanut butter cereal, a Joey Tribianni massive sub sandwich and white chocolate covered pretzels. We were definitely prepared for any eating situation and with that we returned to our motel room to binge whilst watching some US TV.

The next day saw us waking up later than planned (“ooh we can get free coffee until 11am” … “yeah I think it’s only 9am, oh wait.. it’s 11:05”) and head to the Griffith Observatory in the Hollywood hills area. This journey took longer than expected, not only because the buses are very unreliable here but also because you have to change train lines every ten stops! We finally arrived at the closest stop to the observatory and noticed that you could catch a bus up there.. but no, you could only do that on weekends. When a bus did pull up, she said the closest she goes to the observatory is Los Feliz and from there we’d have a 1mile walk.. uphill (“have you all got water?!”). After our long, long walk up to the top of the hill, we were treated to beautiful skyline views of Los Angeles. Seeing it from this high really shows how big and flat the city is. Griffith Observatory is a popular tourist attraction full of science and space displays including telescopes, a Tesla Coil and and a planetarium. We also caught a lecture called “Let’s make a Comet” and even though we were surrounded by a class of 5 year olds on a field trip, the comet they made from water, sand, charcoal and dry ice was pretty impressive. See, travelling is also educational!
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Our final night in LA was spent in bed watching The Hangover and eating. We had to be up at 6:30am to catch our Greyhound bus to San Diego. But before we could do that, I had to scour the entire internet (very slight exaggeration) to find out where we had to get this bus from because handily our tickets nor the website didn’t state the address. We left in the morning with a lot of time to spare in case the public transport was even more unreliable than usual. But we made our bus which came complete with wifi and even a plug (in your face NakedBus) and arrived into a sunny San Diego almost three hours later. One final bus journey and we were at our hostel and this one’s a keeper. They actually had our reservation, were friendly and helpful and we even get free breakfast, the kitchen’s clean and we each have a bed. And what’s crazier is that this one is only $2 more than our first one in LA and is in an even better location in the middle of San Diego. Today has been spent exploring the area, visiting the marina and shopping at a ridiculously cheap grocery store two blocks away from our hostel (yeah, I just said blocks). They have Ben&Jerry’s tubs for $1.99 and Pop Tarts for $1.49. I think I’m going to get very fat in America.
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Smelling of eggs, swinging over rivers and Josie’s 22nd birthday

We left Rotorua and headed to Taupo, a one hour bus journey south. The route was through foggy valleys with mountains either side, one word best to describe it? Beautiful. The smell of rotten eggs started to fade as we left the geothermal hostpot of Rotorua (although our clothes definitely still had a hint of sulphur which we were told could take months to go away.. looks like you guys at home will get to experience this delightful smell as well!). We passed a few more springs and steam filled lakes en route to Taupo. It was certainly one of the most picturesque journeys I have been on since beginning our travels and is definitely how I imagined New Zealand to look like.

When we arrived in Taupo it was cold and resembled Rotorua a great deal. The bus dropped us off in the town centre and we wandered the streets with our heavy, heavy backpacks looking for our next hostel. Through crossroads and long streets, we finally arrived at our next home for three nights; The Rainbow Lodge. This hostel was immediately busier than Cactus Jacks in Rotorua and came equipped with a lot of common room areas, a big clean kitchen and our spacious 9 bed dorm (shotgun single bed!). The staff are very friendly and there’s a great deal of Germans here. The noticeable difference about these hostels to ones such as Base and Nomads (which are chains, there’s usually at least one of them in each city) is that the staff actually care about your stay. They take the time to show you around the hostel and to your room and are always willing to answer any queries or help you find the best deal on excursions. The free coffee is also a great bonus as well!

This hostel also boasts a small sauna. Nathan, Heidi and I decided to try it out and whack it up to full temperature straight away. We can deal with a 125º dry sauna right? I, of course, was first to start sweating. We amused ourselves with a few games of ‘I spy’ then jumped straight into the A to Z memory game of ‘I went on holiday and in my bag I packed…’ … ‘an aquarium’ followed by ‘an aquarium, a broach…’ … ‘an aquarium, a broach, a clock…’ and so on (I won’t bore you with our complete A to Z list). This game started out fun but as soon as we started getting to the latter end of the alphabet (‘an STD, a T-Rex, a Unicorn’), the time-consuming nature of repeating all 18 previous words and adding on the next became difficult, especially when you’re sweating out of every single pore of your body and the humidity is at an all time high. We were determined to finish the game though and weren’t content until we got to ‘a Zebra’ to then run out of the boiling pit and straight into a cold shower. Won’t be rushing to do that again anytime soon!

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In the afternoon we explored our new surroundings. Our hostel slightly resembles a little holiday resort in the country and it definitely feels like we should be sleeping in log cabins by the fire. Especially when the weather is cold in the morning and at night (in the daytime, however, the sun definitely heats you up). Lake Taupo is a strong focal point of this small town, except this lake is almost 30miles long. We decided to find a patch of the lake, which actually looks like the sea, where we could lay for a bit. We managed to find a spot with a pebbly beach and a lot of seagulls and ducks. The sound of the waves crashing onto the shore (surely lakes aren’t meant to have this description?!) was incredibly relaxing causing a few naps to be had. Heidi and I then wandered the streets of Taupo town to shop for Josie’s birthday presents. In doing so, we inadvertently entered the “World’s Coolest McDonald’s”. Honestly, it was proudly displaying this title on the entrance doors. Why? Because it had a real full size plane in the kids play area for you to sit and dine in!! They definitely earned that title and I’m proud to have bought at 60cent ice cream from that establishment. After getting Josie’s amazing presents (and accidentally buying things for myself) we headed to Pak’nSave to purchase our necessary food for our stay. Pak’nSave is a cross between a bulk buy store such as Makro (it also resembles it a great deal) but with the cheap prices of Asda, for example. Nathan and I decided to make a meal that’d last our three night stay. A meal that would not only feed us for the duration of our time in Taupo but probably a family of ten as well. Beef mince, potatoes, onions, carrots and beef stock to create a quick stew or deconstructed shepherd’s pie.
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The following day saw us go on a two hour return walk to Huka Falls. The walk was not as bad as expected and again, stunning. We passed the Taupo Bungy and Cliffhanger (Giant swing) site and were in awe of its beautiful location over the Waikato River. Unfortunately no one was about to endure the freefalling activities and so we only had the structures to look at. We continued onwards with our walk through the Thermal Spa park walkway. This took us over a few hills and back down to the hot springs location. A little footbridge led us across the thermal pools where tourists and locals bathed in the 37º water. It is an absolutely amazing sight to see and we were definitely going to have a dip in there after our mini trek to the waterfall. The walk was nice; a few hills on the way but they were balanced out with descents and lovely views of the river and surrounding areas. It took us just over an hour to reach the Huka Falls viewing area which was definitely worth it. When approaching the waterfall, the river got increasingly faster bringing back memories of studying rivers in geography at school. The water level can be ridiculously high at certain times in the day when they open up the dam further upstream. I think we missed this but the falls were still a beautiful sight to see and the constant rush of water through the narrow valley made me want to go white water rafting again. After many pictures and gazing at the falls, we started our return journey. We stopped off at the hot springs and bathed in the natural thermal water where areas of the river were extremely hot whilst other parts were freezing (well, relatively). There was a small waterfall going into this part of the river which was completely hot water. Think of running a bath and only running the hot tap and sitting underneath this hot tap for a few minutes. It was like that. The transition from this area of the river to the colder parts was amazing. These hot pools were the most natural ones we have visited and were definitely a highlight of our trip to Taupo. You could see the hot patches of water from the rippling effect and catch a perfect spot to bathe in; not too hot, not too cold but warm, tepid (or similar adjectives) and just right (this is sounding an awful lot like Goldielocks now). A friendly dog with two completely different coloured eyes then appeared and we spent a good twenty minutes stroking him wondering where his owner was (we came to the conclusion he just wandered off down here to relax and watch the world go by.. he had his usual spot). We left after some lunch and sun bathing and headed to Burger King by the lake to use their free wifi and browse bookme.co.nz (a discount website for all the tourist attractions) to book onto doing the extreme river swing the following day. We also spent a good hour and a half in the blistering sun looking for a hostel in Wellington. There were only five to choose from ranging from the dirt cheap with bad reviews to the pricy ones with moderately good reviews. We finally booked one though and headed back to our current hostel for dinner, beer and card games.

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We awoke the following morning with mixed emotions (this keeps happening in New Zealand). These emotions were once again a cross between nervous and excited. Nathan, Josie and I were about to partake in the Taupo Cliffhanger, an extreme canyon swing over the Waikato River. We found it online for $60 cheaper than through the company themselves. I wore my walking shoes for only the second time since England (honestly, no matter how many times you read about bringing walking boots, ignore it. You don’t need them!). After completing the usual safety checks, Nathan and Josie were advised to pair up for a better swing whereas I was heavy enough (all of this muscle weighs a lot alright!) to still get a good swing. We approached the platform which hung over the river below and were kitted out in our harnesses. The only thing holding us in above this fast flowing river. The river leading towards the Huka Falls we had seen the previous day. Nathan and Josie were first. They were secured in by the two instructors (who claimed to be hungover from the previous night. Brilliant) and then hung over the river by a crane. They were then told to wave to the camera and then to look behind and wave to Heidi who was filming this on Nathan’s GoPro. This is where the instructors were mean. Whilst innocently waving to Heidi, they suddenly dropped. The 45metre freefall and begun and neither of them had a chance to even think about what was happening. It’s evident from the video footage Heidi got that she probably screamed more than they did. Josie was apparently speechless in the descent whilst Nathan exclaimed that it was the most he has felt like a bird in his life. I, however, had just witnessed the two of them drop in a split second and then swing up the valley and back down a few times. It was my turn next and now I was definitely more nervous.

Nathan and Josie returned safe and sound. I slowly approached the launch platform and was secured into the harness. The crane then moved to the left and I hung over the river like a toy in the grabber about to fall out. I knew their trick now though and so when they told me to wave to their camera and then to Heidi with the GoPro, I was expecting the worst and the sudden drop. They didn’t do it straight away though. What was now worse was that when I was expecting to fall, I didn’t. What were they about to surprise me with? My heart was beating fast and this only increased when they told me to let go of the harness rope and put my hands behind my head. They thought I was too ‘soft’ to not go through with it. I hesitantly released my grip from the harness and started to put my hands behind my head and lean back. I was shitting myself (pardon my French) but this just didn’t feel natural. In a situation like this you want to hold on, especially when you’re about to fall 45metres before the rope takes your weight and swings you back up. Reluctantly my hands were now somewhat placed behind my head. I looked down a few times and could see the rocky bank of the river. Mistake. Then bam they dropped me. I lasted approximately a second without holding on and screamed at the top of my voice. And swore. But the experience was unbelievable and my hands were soon up in the air as I soared above the river and parallel to the cliff face full of pigeons.
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As we’re in New Zealand, we thought it’d only be right to watch the first Lord of the Rings. I had never seen it before (I know.. but I have seen the first two hobbits) and I loved it! It prepared us for our 6hour bus journey the following day to Wellington. We checked out at 10am and waited. Waited in the hostel common room until our 1pm cheaper-than-the-9am bus to the capital.

The coach left Taupo at 1pm and was fortunately pretty empty like our previous two bus journeys in New Zealand. This meant the four of us spread out occupying two seats each for maximum comfort. Halfway into our journey saw us stopping at a remote, small, old service ‘station’ called Flat Hills. It housed a café, souvenir and convenience shop and two chickens. One chicken was very heavy footed and walked as though it had wooden legs. We continued onward to Wellington and half an hour later, drove through Bulls town. It was definitely a very unforgeta-bull place to drive through (I would normally say excuse the pun but there’s really no need because they liked to have a joke in this town. Wait, it gets better..). On the local pub was a ‘remark-a-bull’, ‘love-a-bull’ on a pre school, ‘bank-a-bull’ on the bank, ‘consum-a-bull’ on McDonald’s, ‘const-a-bull’ on the police station and ‘unmiss-a-bull’ on the bins. There was also a large cardboard cut out of a bull with the slogan “bet my bulls are bigger than yours”. Excellent.

The journey was incredibly pretty and picturesque. We passed loads of small towns with barely any shops, cafés or people. Experienced many winding roads and no motorways. Just long stretches of beautiful countryside. When approaching Wellington six hours after leaving the small town of Taupo, the bundles of lit up houses on the hills and the harbour sitting in the sunset was reminding me of when we would drive through Port Talbot, Wales when we were younger.

We trekked for a good half an hour from the bus drop off point to our hostel with all our possessions on our backs. On arrival to our hostel, it was a little less beautiful than the coach trip. A window of the adjoining bar was smashed in, the entrance looked like we were going in to a crack den, the communal toilets resembled grotty public ones and our 8-bed room was a nice tight squeeze. The atmosphere of the whole hostel was odd and unlike any we’ve experienced in any of the hostels we’ve stayed in… but us being the budget travellers we are, we obviously opted for this accommodation over any of the others due to the price tag, $16.

Our first night in Wellington was spent away from our far from homely hostel. We decided the best way to deal with this change in comfort was to drink and so went on a mission to find a pub. It didn’t take long to find a nearby strip of pubs, clubs and fast food joints. We settled for an Irish bar where a live band (well, duo) were playing. All was going well; we had pints, a few card games on the go and two men singing Bruce Springsteen and other such classics. Then there was the solo drunken guy who went and made it weird. With his Guiness in hand, he approached the stage with some sultry moves you’d expect to see in a seedy film and not some classic Irish pub. After much hip gyrating (him, not us) the band went for a break and we got out of there. Welcome to Wellington! We hadn’t eaten since our plethora of snacks on the six hour bus journey and headed to find our dinner… until we got sidetracked by a Kebab shop which had Shisha for $20. Where did we do this shisha? Right outside the kebab window with a backdrop of chicken and lamb. After five minutes we were getting asked by a Māori man what we were doing. He had seen stuff like shisha on TV before but couldn’t grasp why people did it or why we didn’t have anything stronger and illegal in there. After a lot of repetition on why people do shisha and what it is, he called Nathan Ricky Martin and left.

Wellington is the capital of New Zealand. It is known as the cultural capital and prides itself on its quirky cafés, indie pubs, mountains of restaurants and cuba street; a street not far from our hostel reknowned for its out-there style. There’s a plethora of coffee shops, vintage clothing stores and busy bookshops nestled in a street full of cool fountains, talented buskers, artists painting via puppets and even an adult playstore. We spent the first full day in Wellington on this street walking up and down, browsing what the shops had to offer and looking at tattoo parlours. After a lunch at the best coffee shop in Wellington, we abused the free city wifi and headed to get quotes for tattoo designs for Nathan and Josie.

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I really like Wellington. The only downside to this city is our hostel. It’s bearable but the people who are staying here (whether long-term or short-term like us) are unlike any I’ve met before. There’s a mix of loud, messy and odd individuals who have no respect for their surroundings. They leave dirty dishes everywhere, smoke in their rooms and generally don’t clean up after themselves. Luckily the four of us are staying with nice roommates; a Chilean girl studying in Wellington to become a yoga instructor and three guys, two of whom are working at the hostel to earn their stay. We, however, have spent so much time outside of the hostel experiencing the vibrant life of the capitial that it hasn’t been much of an issue.

Friday the 4th April. A normal day for many.. but not Josephine Atkinson. She was turning 22! She awoke bright and early to Skype her family whilst we wrapped her presents, blew up balloons and drew faces on them (one for each of us and her family members), decorated her cake and made a lollipop trail for her to follow from the hallway to the room. We sand happy birthday at 9am in the morning (much to the delight of our sleeping roommates) and let her blow out the magic candles which never blow out. This bit didn’t exactly go to plan though because the candles gave off so much smoke that we had to put them out in a bottle of water incase that we set off an alarm (pah, as if there’s any alarms in this hostel).
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After cake and sparkling wine for breakfast and Josie loving her presents, we headed out for a wander down the harbourfront and to find a restaurant for her birthday lunch. One immediately stood out amongst the rest; The Crab Shack where their slogan was “we’ve got crabs, do you?”. Josie and I ordered the slow roasted lamb shank, Heidi ordered the cajun fish of the day whilst Nathan opted for 1kg of crabs. Smelly crabs. It took him the best part of an hour to munch through this mountain of crab and even gave him crab scented farts. We were all suitably full (the food was absolutely delicious) and headed to a pub for a birthday pint in the sun. Then came the ice skating. There’s a temporary rink on the harbourfront which costs $20 for however long you wish to skate for. We were all (well, not Nathan) displaying Bambi-like footwork on the ice to begin with whilst holding on to the sides for dear life and going 2mph to ensure we didn’t slip up. But once we got used to it, we were professionals. I was skating around happily, speeding up a little and then crash. I fell. Straight onto my derrière in an awkward slump on the wet ice. Confidence knocked complete with a sore knee. Josie was growing in confidence by the minute and after a few laps holding on, she was soon enough gliding around without a care in the world. After an hour and a half of skating, we headed to the liquor store to prepare for the night ahead. Josie’s birthday celebrations were, you could say, a very drunk affair.

The following morning saw a few groggy heads and empty wallets. We were up surprisingly early though and on the hunt for refreshing beverages to cure the dry mouths and sore heads. Nathan and I decided to head to Zealandia, an eco-sanctuary experience just a ten minute drive away from the city centre. It is the world’s first fully-fenced urban eco-sanctuary with its aim to restore the valley to its pre-human state. The fence stops any inference from predators such as mice and possums (your bag is checked prior to entering for any rats or similar) and thus ensures these rare birds and reptiles are safe in recovery of this beautiful valley. The whole park is breathtaking and really is like paradise. We saw a range of rare birds and lizards, including the flightless Tahakē, the Tuatara; the ‘living fossils’ reptile that was extinct on mainland before being released in the sanctuary and the Kākā, a large parrot which we got to see feeding. At the top end of the valley was the upper dam. Now the view from this part of the sanctuary was absolutely incredible. Looking back down the valley and seeing all the surrounding wildlife in its natural state was an awesome experience and one that I would greatly recommend to anyone on the North island.
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We’re now getting ready to leave Wellington and head back up to Auckland for our flight to Los Angeles on Monday. Now the most difficult thing about this journey is the length. It is going to take us 13hours to get back to Auckland via ‘the naked bus’ (we’ve told Josie that a requirement to board the coach is to in fact be completely undressed, I’ll let you know how this pans out). I have loved Taupo and Wellington and although I am gutted we didn’t manage to make it to the south island, we have managed to fit so much in and been to some pretty amazing places in the past two weeks here in New Zealand that I guess I’ll just have to come back at some point to explore the southern half.

Ciao for now and hopefully the next time I blog I won’t be stinking of rotten eggs!
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